Walking Tours of Historic Edinburgh
Edinburgh, Scotland's magnificent capital, is a city best explored on foot. Built on seven hills and structured around a medieval Old Town and elegant Georgian New Town (together forming a UNESCO World Heritage site), Edinburgh offers an abundance of historic streets, hidden closes, and spectacular viewpoints that reveal themselves to those willing to wander. This guide presents four self-guided walking routes that showcase the city's rich heritage, literary connections, hidden gems, and dramatic vistas.
The Royal Mile: Edinburgh's Historic Spine
The Royal Mile, a succession of streets running between Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace, forms the historic backbone of the Old Town. This route takes you through centuries of Scottish history:
Starting Point: Edinburgh Castle
Begin your journey at Edinburgh Castle, the imposing fortress perched atop Castle Rock. Before entering (admission fee applies), take a moment to enjoy the panoramic views across the city from the castle esplanade. Inside, highlights include the Scottish Crown Jewels (the Honours of Scotland), the Stone of Destiny, St. Margaret's Chapel (the city's oldest building), and the One O'Clock Gun, fired daily except Sundays.
The Upper Royal Mile
Descending from the castle, you'll walk along Castlehill and the Lawnmarket. Stop at Gladstone's Land, a 17th-century merchant's house preserved by the National Trust for Scotland, to glimpse how the wealthy lived in old Edinburgh. Nearby, The Scotch Whisky Experience offers an introduction to Scotland's national drink for those interested.
Continue to the Heart of Midlothian, a heart-shaped mosaic in the cobblestones marking the entrance to the old Tolbooth prison. Local tradition suggests spitting on the heart brings good luck, though visitors may prefer to simply observe this custom!
The Middle Section
As you proceed down High Street, explore St. Giles' Cathedral, Edinburgh's principal church for over 900 years, with its distinctive crown spire and beautiful stained glass. The nearby Mercat Cross marks the spot where royal proclamations were historically announced.
Take time to venture down some of the narrow closes (alleyways) branching off the main street. Real Mary King's Close offers guided tours of a preserved 17th-century street now buried beneath the City Chambers. For a more spontaneous exploration, Advocate's Close and Dunbar's Close provide atmospheric glimpses into old Edinburgh's vertical architecture.
The Lower Royal Mile
Continuing east along Canongate, you'll pass the Museum of Edinburgh, the Scottish Poetry Library, and Canongate Kirk with its peaceful churchyard containing the grave of economist Adam Smith. The imposing Scottish Parliament building presents a striking contrast with its modern architecture, leading finally to the elegant Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Queen's official residence in Scotland.
Walking Time: 3-4 hours with stops (1 mile in length, but much to explore)
Difficulty: Moderate – includes uphill sections and cobbled streets
Best Time to Visit: Early morning to avoid crowds or early evening for beautiful light
Literary Edinburgh: Following Famous Footsteps
Edinburgh, the world's first UNESCO City of Literature, has inspired countless writers from Robert Burns to J.K. Rowling. This walk traces the literary heritage that permeates the city:
Starting Point: Scott Monument
Begin at the Scott Monument in Princes Street Gardens, the largest monument to a writer in the world. Dedicated to Sir Walter Scott, its Gothic spire allows brave climbers a spectacular view after ascending 287 steps. The nearby Princes Street Gardens were once the putrid Nor' Loch, described vividly in many historical novels set in Edinburgh.
The New Town
Walk north to Charlotte Square, where you'll find the Georgian House (showing New Town life in the 18th century) and the venue for the Edinburgh International Book Festival each August. Nearby, Rose Street was once famous for its pubs where literary figures like Hugh MacDiarmid and Norman MacCaig held court.
Literary Watering Holes
Head south via The Oxford Bar on Young Street, the favorite pub of Ian Rankin's fictional detective Inspector Rebus. Cross Princes Street to reach The Café Royal, with its magnificent interior mentioned in works by Scottish writers from Irvine Welsh to Alexander McCall Smith.
Old Town Literary Landmarks
Continue to the Writers' Museum in Lady Stair's Close, dedicated to Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. Nearby, you'll find Makars' Court, an evolving literary monument with quotes from Scottish writers inscribed in the flagstones.
Walk south to George IV Bridge and stop at The Elephant House, one of the cafés where J.K. Rowling wrote early Harry Potter novels. Adjacent Greyfriars Kirkyard contains graves whose names may have inspired Potter characters, including a "Tom Riddle."
The National Museum and University
The National Museum of Scotland houses literary artifacts, while Edinburgh University nearby has educated many writers including Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, creator of Sherlock Holmes. Finish your literary journey on the Meadows, where Robert Louis Stevenson often walked while a student, reportedly working out the dual nature of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde.
Walking Time: 3 hours with stops
Difficulty: Easy to moderate, some inclines
Best Time to Visit: During the Edinburgh International Book Festival in August for special events
Dean Village and Water of Leith: Hidden Edinburgh
This peaceful route takes you away from the tourist crowds to discover a different aspect of Edinburgh along its central waterway:
Starting Point: St. Andrew Square
Begin in the heart of the New Town at St. Andrew Square, surrounded by grand buildings from Edinburgh's Enlightenment period. Head west along George Street, the elegant central thoroughfare of the New Town, lined with classical architecture and upscale shops.
The Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art
Continue west, crossing Queensferry Road to reach the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. The gallery's grounds feature sculptures by artists including Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth, and the building itself is an imposing neoclassical former school.
Dean Village
Descend into Dean Village, a tranquil former milling community on the Water of Leith. This picturesque settlement with its distinctive architecture feels worlds away from the city center despite being just minutes away. Look for carved stone plaques with baked goods that identify former bakeries, and note Well Court, the distinctive red sandstone building that dominates the village.
The Water of Leith Walkway
Join the Water of Leith Walkway heading east. This tree-lined path follows the river through the heart of the city yet remains a peaceful sanctuary rich with wildlife. You might spot herons, kingfishers, and even otters if you're lucky.
Stockbridge
The path brings you to Stockbridge, a vibrant village-like neighborhood known for its independent shops, cafés, and Sunday market. The area retains its distinctive character and community feel despite being so central. Take time to explore Circus Lane, one of Edinburgh's most photogenic streets with its mews cottages and curved row.
From Stockbridge, you can either continue along the Water of Leith to Leith itself (adding another 3 miles), or head back to the city center via the charming streets of the New Town.
Walking Time: 2-3 hours with stops
Difficulty: Easy to moderate, some steps and slopes
Best Time to Visit: Spring for wildflowers or autumn for colors
Arthur's Seat and Holyrood Park: Edinburgh's Natural Wilderness
This route takes you through Holyrood Park to conquer Arthur's Seat, an ancient volcano offering the most spectacular views of Edinburgh:
Starting Point: Palace of Holyroodhouse
Begin at the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official royal residence in Scotland. From the palace, enter Holyrood Park through the gate adjacent to the Scottish Parliament. This remarkable 640-acre royal park contains hills, lochs, cliffs, and archaeological remains in the heart of the city.
St. Margaret's Loch
Follow the path east around St. Margaret's Loch, often home to swans and ducks. You'll pass the picturesque ruins of St. Anthony's Chapel perched on a rocky outcrop above. Dating from the 15th century, these ruins offer a splendid photo opportunity and your first elevated viewpoint.
The Ascent
Several paths lead to the summit of Arthur's Seat (251m/823ft). The most gradual ascent follows the "Radical Road" along the base of the impressive Salisbury Crags before circling around the back of Arthur's Seat and approaching from the east. For a more direct but steeper climb, take the well-worn path that leads straight up from the east side of the palace.
Whichever route you choose, the path becomes steeper and slightly rocky near the top. The final ascent to the true summit involves some light scrambling on rocky steps.
The Summit
From the summit, you're rewarded with a 360-degree panorama of Edinburgh, the Firth of Forth, and beyond to the highlands on a clear day. The unique perspective shows how the city has developed around its volcanic features, with the castle and Old Town on one ridge and Arthur's Seat forming a dramatic natural counterpoint.
Descent via Duddingston
For variety, descend to the southeast toward the charming village of Duddingston, now absorbed into Edinburgh but retaining its distinct character. Duddingston Loch is a bird sanctuary, and The Sheep Heid Inn, reputedly Scotland's oldest pub (established around 1360), offers a welcome rest stop. From Duddingston, you can return to Holyrood via the east side of the park or take a bus back to the city center.
Walking Time: 2-3 hours
Difficulty: Moderate to challenging, uneven terrain, and steep sections
Best Time to Visit: Dawn for spectacular light and fewer people, or evening for sunset views
Practical Tips for Walking Tours
- Edinburgh's weather is notoriously changeable – dress in layers and carry rain gear regardless of the forecast.
- Wear comfortable, sturdy footwear – even city center walks involve cobblestones, steps, and occasionally slippery surfaces.
- For Arthur's Seat, proper walking shoes are essential, along with water and snacks.
- Edinburgh is a compact city but involves hills and inclines – pace yourself and allow extra time if mobility is a concern.
- August brings the festival crowds, making some routes much busier – start earlier or later in the day.
- Most routes pass plenty of cafés and pubs for refreshments, but carry water on the Arthur's Seat walk.
- Download the free "Edinburgh World Heritage" app for additional insights along the historic routes.
Edinburgh reveals itself most completely to those who explore on foot, allowing serendipitous discoveries down cobbled lanes and breathtaking vistas from unexpected viewpoints. These walking routes offer structured ways to experience the city's many facets, but don't hesitate to detour and explore – Edinburgh's greatest treasures often wait just around the corner from the main tourist trail.